Dar es Salaam-bound

For those of you who have noted that you missed my travel updates over the past year I have made a New Years resolution to get better at it… so please hold me to it. For those of you who are new to reading my travel updates – welcome!

Returning to Tanzania has been on my mind ever since I arrived in Denmark on August 5th, 2010. This has a lot to do with my love of the Swahili language, the quizzical contradictions of Tanzanian culture and the appeal of the vast and varying landscape, but it also has do to with a personal mission of social responsibility.

During my position with the Canadian NGO Sustainable Cities International during 2010 I laid the foundations for an urban agriculture project. The project, more specifically, was designed to address the non-existent land rights of those producing food the city. During my consultations with a variety of stakeholders who occupied a panorama of societal and professional positions, as well as relationships to urban agriculture, it was obvious that the pervasive activity that contributes to an estimated 40% of the formal and informal economy of the city was highly marginalised. Also the combination of urban plus agriculture did not register to many decision makers as a modern concept, yet it is in many cases that I have personally seen, heard and smelled the benefits of urban animal rearing and vegetable cultivation being reaped in the backyards by the very ones who have created the restrictive laws. The overall conundrum was, and still is, that urban food production is both physically, as well as mentally subject to marginalisation.

However, to much of the same degree, our attempt was replicated in the 1990s by the United Nations Development Program’s Sustainable Cities Programme. Despite much(!) higher funding than our ambitious four-person office in Dar es Salaam the UNDP’s objective to secure land rights for urban farmers was never realised over the course of the ten year programme.

Throughout the development of the project I continuously asked myself, as well as others, if what we were attempting to do was “right.” That being said, within the world of development “right” is a very relative term. We bring in our own assumptions, values and cultures to the places we work, with or without realisation. Would established land rights for urban farmers and land zoning for urban cultivation transform into a double-edge sword capable of doing as much damage as good?

On one hand zoning land for urban agriculture conserves increasingly urbanising land from becoming developed. It also contributes to urban green spaces and the protection of these green spaces from the infringement of unplanned settlements, which are already occupied by 70% of the city’s occupants. Additionally, it enhances food security within the city by allowing farmers to apply for national agricultural grants that can improve their production levels. On the other hand, zoning land for agricultural use in Dar es Salaam could potentially result in further marginalisation, as each of the three municipalities and city council would be responsible for the administration of the permits to access the land. Additionally, the majority of farmers whose livelihoods are solely based on growing and selling their produce may not be capable of paying the fee to access the zoned land. Existing sites may be lost and farmers would be forced to move elsewhere, most likely to the peri-urban areas.

So what is “right” in this case? It is hard to see when only one of the outcomes has ever been realised. Therefore, as you can see this is as much a personal mission, as it is about my fulfilling the requirements for my master’s thesis.However, combining, as well as trying to keep separate the two proves difficult. In recognising this my programme director told me, in true Danish Jantelov fashion: “Afton, just remember you are not going to save the world with your thesis.”

Of course my 60 page document, as well as subsequent journal articles, policy papers and conference presentations, will not save the world, but hopefully improve our understanding of the past, present and future implications of establishing land zoning and land rights for urban agriculture on urban sustainability.

The Bathing Society

I have decided to do some weekly posts of the peculiarities of Danish Society, as they are highly worth sharing with the rest of the world. As there aren’t so many differences between Canada and Denmark, the things that are different really stand out. Please follow along each week to see what exactly they are and share a laugh or two.

Denmark is a nation of societies, clubs and associations. There is something for everyone.

I, for one, am a member of the Badeforening, or Bathing Society*. Actually, I suppose you could say I was forced to be a member if I wanted to stay clean.

Many old apartments in Copenhagen do not have showers in each individual unit. Instead, you find the shower in the basement of the building. This is due to the high density housing built in the 20th Century (complete with outhouses in the courtyard), which made it very difficult to retrofit bathrooms, let alone showers into renovated apartment units.

My apartment in one of these. I do not possess my own shower. Instead I share it with my fellow neighbours in happy danish socialist harmony.

Sign me up

Every morning I get my heart pumping as I make the journey downstairs to the shower. After I am finished I sprint upstairs to my fifth floor apartment (4th floor in the Danish floor numbering system, which in itself is another oddity), sometimes tripping on the stairs or losing my towel as I once did, which resulted in a white glare (it was winter) beaming into the neighbouring apartments.

Unfortunately, membership is not free, but if you want to smell fresh every day it is probably a good idea to hand over some money to the Society.

The benefit of the annual membership is a warm shower. Nothing more, nothing less. The fee goes towards the repair of the shower and cleaning products. However, the shower head has been broken for months now and I am beginning to sense corruption within the society.

Since we are approximately eight people in the Society (I haven’t met any them, let alone any of my neighbours since living here, another quirk) we rotate cleaning weeks. If you fail to clean during your week on the roster you are charged a penalty of 300DKK ($60) and banned from the Society (ok, I added that part). It’s a steep penalty for not removing the hair from the drain.

…I wonder where this money goes. Perhaps to fund the construction of someone’s personal shower?

Singing in the… kitchen!

I’m not alone. Other friends of mine have showers in their kitchens, overtop of toilets or showers retrofitted into the middle of their bedroom.

Nina could technically fry up some eggs for breakfast while shampooing her hair!

For Jesper, it is only a 2 step walk from his bed to the shower. He could literally roll out of bed, and into the shower.

I’ll keep you posted with more obscure Danish shower venues. Or, if you know of any please tell!

*If you are interested in joining we are now recruiting new members to the Bathing Society. Please contact me with your interest.

A Cheesy Story

Monsanto is a small Portuguese town perched on top of a mountain dominated by massive and mysterious boulders. With only 80 residents, all of which are an average of 70 years old, tourism is the main draw to the town. In the 1930’s it won “the most Portuguese town” award, which is still donned throughout the town.

Monsanto Rooftops

Entering into a small artesanato shop filled with kitschy souvenirs to the taste of a rather elderly clientele I spotted a rack of yellowish cheese wrapped on the rim with white cloth. The shop was vacant, but slowly an old, weathered woman emerges behind a screen that separates the shop from her home. Peering back at us were two women of equally the same age.

We interrogated her on everything she knew about the 12 Euro cheese. Is it good? Yes, very good. Where does it come from? Monsanto. What kind of milk is it? Sheep. Can it travel? Yes. Can it survive the warmth of the car? Yes. Are you sure it can it last for 10 days in a warm car? Yes.

Not only was the cheese invincible, but also according to the old lady it “recently” won medals as Europe’s best cheese (but maybe that was also in 1930). Whether she was a very good sales person, or just an honest old lady we may never know.

Her sweet and convincing face, as well as my empathy for her poor preference in saleable souvenirs (aside from the cheese, of course), as well as the combination of the quite possibly Europe’s best cheese drew me in for an immediate sale.

SOLD.

After much poking a prodding she selected the best one that she believed would survive the journey. She even managed to get me on a local honey aperitif, which she noted paired very well with the cheese.

Well travelled

I supposed I have forgotten to mention a slight obsession in terms of the purchase fine cheeses. Along the 2,700km journey around Portugal I tasted and bought quite happily many a cheese.

Cheese from sheep milk, cheese from goat milk, cheese from a combination cow and sheep milk, acclaimed cheese, not-so acclaimed cheese: They were all there sitting behind the counter, just waiting.

However, the combination of the sunny Portuguese temperature and constant beating that each cheese endured (squished between other purchases of locally made liqueurs and jams, as well as other luggage) lead to an amazingly funky nose, of which we had to constantly smell. And, of course, as the purchaser and future consumer of these products, the blame was entirely on me.

But, then there came a sad point in the voyage. My Portuguese travel companion banned me from buying more cheese. But, there was cheese everywhere, just waiting to fall into my hands and into our noxious, cheese-infested Hyundai.

Airport Security

When I was 14 years old I once tried to bring an olive tree back from Italy. After carrying it across Italy, and all the way to Vancouver International Airport, I was met by an unsympathetic customs officer who refused to pardon my importational ignorance. Oli, as he was fondly named, was confiscated and later incinerated.

Nine years later, it is apparent that still haven’t learned.

After clearing the Serra de Estrella, Serpa and Monsanto cheeses through Portuguese security, they made it to our connecting destination in Brussels. They even managed a brief tour of the city. However, things turned for the worst when my hand baggage went through the security check at Brussels International.

”Is this your bag?” asked a blond-haired Belgian security personnel pointing at my green laptop bag.

The search was on, and seconds later three smelly plastic bags emerged.

Slightly nervous about losing my tasty dairy investments, I reflected on what my travel mate had previously noted about the bomb like shape of the Monsanto cheese wheel. The cheese was then placed into a bin, and brought for rescanning. I awaited the outcome in udder suspense.

”I am sorry, but this one (pointing to the large circular Monsanto cheese) is considered a liquid because it is soft and cannot be carried in your hand luggage,” said the security woman which an evident touch of sadness.

”But…..but, it is the best cheese in Europe! It has come so far. I can’t leave it now,” I whimpered trying to defend the pungent product.

She must have been a cheese lover herself, because she then picked up these cheeses and brought them to her supervisor. From a distance we could see him, once again, poke, prod and sniff each cheese. Returning from the inspection it was determined that the largest cheese, the Monsanto, was the issue due to its relative soft squishy consistency. It had to go.

Analyzing the options that I had on hand I decided to attempt checking my precious cheese. Back at the check in counter I explained my dire situation: I needed to get this cheese from Belgium to Denmark. However, I didn’t have an extra bag to put it in. After hearing a comment from one of the Brussels Airlines staff members about the how it might end up under 40kg of baggage I emptied my camera bag of its contents and put the cheese inside.

Somehow, my whine accompanied with the absurdity of the situation (and maybe the overpowering smell of the moulded mass) convinced the check-in staff, and I was able to check in the cheese without an extra baggage free.

This cheese better be good.

Terra Madre “Eat-In”

http://universitypost.dk/article/eat-event-drew-carrot-loving-crowd

What We Can Learn from Scandinavia

From: http://www.bclocalnews.com/vancouver_island_central/ladysmithchronicle/lifestyles/111822199.html

A lot can be learned from the Scandinavian nation Denmark. The environmentally conscious country has been a world leader in addressing environmental, economic and social sustainability.

Copenhagen, the largest city in Denmark, has a metropolitan population of 1.9 million and will continue to grow steadily over the next decade.

Reducing the urban “footprint”

The Danish Government, along with the City of Copenhagen, has a good international track record when it comes to promoting green solutions to urban growth.

Copenhagen plans to be the first carbon-neutral city by 2025.

They will to do this by building more parks, promoting cycling, recycling, green transportation, retrofitting buildings and promoting locally grown food.

Even internationally known breweries such as Carlsberg have cut their CO2 emissions by using 30 per cent carbon-neutral energy sources.

Just outside downtown, Copenhagen windmills catch the ocean breeze. Wind power provides nearly 20 per cent of Denmark’s energy. Denmark produces more than half of the world’s wind turbines, and the industry keeps growing as the demand for clean energy sources increases.

Food Consumption

Organics are much more mainstream than in Canada. They are not seen as alternative or “hippy” foods, but as an essential part of a more sustainable food system.

Denmark consumes the most organic products than any other country in the world. In 2015, Denmark aims to have 20 per cent organic products in all supermarkets. In public institutions 51 per cent of the food that is consumed is organic. Private household consumption is as high as 23 per cent.

Fair-trade coffee, bananas, chocolate and tea are common place. Often there is no other option than fair-trade items.

Cycling Nation

Ninety-nine per cent of Danes own one or more bicycles, and 55 per cent ride their bike to school or work each day.

Even in the snowy November weather the majority of the Copenhageners transport themselves by bicycle.

The 300 km of cycling paths are plowed and salted during the winter months so that cyclists are not deterred from their commuting routine.

Even in the smallest of towns cycling paths are the norm and are a regular form of transportation.

Tropentag 2010

Tropentag is the annual Conference on Tropical and Subtropical Agricultural and Natural Resource Management (TROPENTAG) is jointly organised by the universities of Bonn, Göttingen, Hohenheim, Kassel-Witzenhausen, Hamburg, Zurich as well as by the Council for Tropical and Subtropical Research (ATSAF e.V) in co-operation with the GTZ Advisory Service on Agricultural Research for Development (BEAF).

Tropentag 2010 will be held in Zurich, Switzerland. All students, Ph.D. students, scientists, extension workers, decision makers, politicians and practical farmers, interested and engaged in agricultural research and rural development in the tropics and subtropics are invited to participate and to contribute.

• Who should be making the hard decisions on food security? It should be those who are food insecure.

• The green revolution in Africa needs should not replicate the last green revolution. We need a revolution with a capital “G” – one that is environmentally conscious, and not just focused on short-term increases in food production.

• 80 million households are smallholder dairy farmers in Pakistan.

Food Security. Natural Resource Management. Rural Development. These are all important modern issues, but how do we find the solutions? How do we make a coordinated effort to improve the environmental and human condition on this planet?

A group of 12 student reporters from different European universities have come together to report on the conference through the use of Web 2.0 methods: Flickr, Facebook, Twitter, Blogging, etc. This is the first year that student reporters have been coordinated to report on the conference – so this is an interesting experiment in dissemination of information.

If you are interested check out the following links:

1) Blog: http://blog.tropentag.de/

2) Facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tropentag-Student-Network/112456435479546?ref=ts

3) Flickr: www.flickr.com/tropentag

4) Twitter: http://twitter.com/tropentag

5) You Tube: www.youtube.com/tropentag

From East Africa to Scandinavia

My internship in Dar es Salaam has come to a close, and I am now commencing my studies in Agricultural Development at the University of Copenhagen.

After living in Tanzania for six months I welcomed some of the luxuries of life in Denmark: Drinking water from the tap without boiling it, reliable electricity, safe public transportation, and bicycle lanes.

However, there are some things that I will certainly miss. These include saying hello to everyone in the streets, fresh and cheap local produce, and warm weather!

I am currently attending an International Graduate Students Orientation Program. We are nearly 60 students in total representing 39 different countries: From Burma to Ecuador, Moldova to Cameroon, Honduras to Romania.

Many international students have asked me “Why have you chosen to study in Denmark? You have very good universities in your country. Canada is a good place to live.”

I know Canada is a great place to live, especially Vancouver Island. However, I never fully realized this until I began travelling. But, once I started travelling I developed my passion for understanding different cultures. Since then the journey has never stopped.

No matter how long I am away from home I am still an ambassador for Canada. And, no matter where I go I am always wearing my “cultural backpack.” However, the judgments that are formed about me by the people I meet do not reflect Canada as a whole. An individual can never solely represent one country.

During the orientation we were asked to think about all the stereotypes of our own countries. I took out my notebook and prepared my list. Maple syrup, forests, igloos, snow, the Rocky Mountains, Mounties…

We went around the room and each student spoke about their country. Nepal has the Himalayas. China has very populous cities. Brazil has Carnival. Rwanda had the Genocide. Vietnam had the war.

Not all countries are associated with positive connotations. However, we are lucky in Canada. In general, we are seen as friendly, progressive and open people.

A Rwandan friend told me that in Rwanda they refer to Canada as “The Ultimate Place.” Fortunately, I have been to Rwanda and have seen what a beautiful country “the land of one thousand hills” is. This experience allowed me to move beyond seeing Rwanda for only its dark history.

So what is one of the most important things I have learned in my travels? I have learned that no matter where you are there are negative and positive attributes associated with place. However, it is when you focus on the positive, and try to improve the negative, that you have the best experiences… wherever you may be.